post grilled - ayam percik twice cooked braised in the pot then grilled. There is a dish originated from Kelantan (or is it Terengganu?) that is available in every Pasar Ramadan in Malaysia every year. It is ayam percik and the smell of the a Ramadan bazaar is incomplete without it. As if by magic , or the drums of your stomach, you would be lured into the stall, buying more than what you'd end up eating. And no matter where you are, if you are a Malaysian, you'd want a taste of it at least once during Ramadan.
I still remember my first taste of Ayam Percik. Or is it Ayam Golek?I was probably 8 or 9 and my aunt was married to a man from Terengganu a few months before. It was Ramadan and he was grilling some chicken in their back garden. I remember it so well because unlike other bbq chicken, this one smelled of something sweet and coconuty. There was a spicy smell too and yet it is not curry. It was also red unlike the usual yellow (turmeric rub) or brown (soya sauce based marinade) or the butter based roast chicken that I was accustomed to. Ayam Percik then was very exotic to me and I can't wait.
I remember the first bite - it was sweet, then spicy, then coconuty and totally dreamy. The flesh of the chicken was so moist and pregnant with taste and the skin was very crispy. And there was the keropok to sop up the gravy with. I can't get enough of it. My mom began making it after that and we used to have it quite often.
I thought of the technique recently when there was a wave of blogs making
Mark Bittman's Chicken Adobo. There are two schools of thought on how ayam Percik should be made - one is by grilling it on fire for a long time and brushing the gravy over and over it again. Thsi can be extremely punishing because it can be very long and you have to make sure each surface of the chicken is soaked in gravy. The other, the one that I am more used to, is twice cooked. First braised in a thick coconut gravy then grilled on open fire or in the oven. Before grilling, the braising gravy is boiled and reduced into a sauce - to be brushed over the chicken as it grills and then later poured over the chicken, eaten with with rice and keropok!
The sauce (kuah) is a very important element of the ayam percik. The famous Malaysian blogger,
Natinski recently stated in her Malay blog,
Natasya di Awangan that she "can tell if the ayam percik is any good by just looking at the kuah..." The sauce has to be the perfect marriage of sweet, salty, spicy and coconuty. Done right, there is no other dish that can rival ayam percik in this department. That is probably why even after so many years of eating it and it being so widely available in Malaysia, it remains exotic to me.
A feast of ayam percik, kerabu zucchini - made from the vegetables in our garden - , keropok and white rice. Because it is first braised in the coconut gravy, the chicken can be between 50-70 percent cooked and is great for a party because you don't have to worry if your chicken is thoroughly cooked. You can even make it a day or two ahead, just refrigerate and later heat it completely before putting it on the grill. And when it is no longer the ideal weather for an open grill outside, make it in the oven and your house will be filled with the aroma of a very exotic summer!
The Recipe
Ayam PercikIngredients:1 chicken - cut to 8 pieces
400ml coconut milk
5 stalks lemon grass - inner white part only
1 onion
3cm ginger
3cm galangal
3 garlic
10 dry chillies - soak in water
1 tsp fenugreek
half a disc of palm sugar - or 1TBSP brown sugar
1 tamarind skin - use tamarind juice if you don't have it
salt to taste
Method1. Combine the lemon grass, onion, ginger, galangal, garlic and dry chillies in the food processor and blend until you get a thick paste.
2. In a pot, add the coconut milk, chili paste, fenugreek, salt and sugar. Bring it to a slow boil. Taste the seasoning and adjust accordingly.
3. Reduce the heat to medium low and add in the chicken. If the chicken is not covered by the gravy, add some water or if you prefer, half and half of coconut milk and water.
4. Cook, covered for half and hour until the chicken is cooked through. Turn the chicken once or twice.
5. Cool the chicken down, pat it dry with kitchen paper and let it rest in the fridge until you are ready to grill. This step is meant to make the skin of the chicken very crispy.
6. You can now sieve the gravy of evidence of galangal and lemon grass. I skip this part because I prefer this dish to be rustic. Turn the heat up again and bring the gravy to boil and reduce to about a cup.
7. Fire up your grill and over medium heat, grill the chicken for about 3-5 minutes on each side. Brush the gravy over the chicken pieces as you grill them, this is probably why it is called percik because the word percik in Malay means to to sprinkle/spray.
8. Serve with white rice, kerabu and keropok. And extra sauce for ooomph!